Sunday, May 24, 2015

Bayeux - A Travel Guide

Nestled within the tranquil countryside of western Normandy, the little French town of Bayeux makes for a compelling day trip, thanks largely to it being steeped in history - both ancient and recent.
At less than five miles inland from the English Channel, Bayeux is easily accessible from the major seaports and regional hubs of Caen and Cherbourg to the east, and Le Havre and Saint Malo to the west. The roads spanning the region are well-kept, have a low volume of traffic and are lined with residences and farmhouses advertising home-crafted produce for sale, from soft cheeses and fresh bread through to delicacies such as foie-gras, and these make idea places to stop off along the journey.

The town of Bayeux itself is a sleepy little haven with a pretty and surprisingly intact historic centre. Its centrepiece is the looming Norman Cathedral, established over one thousand years ago by the infamous William the Conqueror. The local economy thrives on tourism, and as a result visitors here will find their every need catered to, as well as discovering an acceptance (or rather tolerance!) of the English language far greater than is found throughout the rest of France. The modern and expansive Tourist Information Centre situated on the centrally-located street Rue Larcher is a good first port of call, where you can browse brochures on local sights and receive first-hand information and advice from the friendly, polite and attentive English-speaking staff.
The major draw for many visitors to Bayeux - and rightly so - is the chance to see a stunningly well-preserved piece of historic art with their own eyes. The Bayeux Tapestry, a seventy metre-long embroidery depicting the story of the successful Norman conquest of England culminating in the Battle of Hastings in 1066, is presented in its entirety backlit in a darkened room for visitors to study at their leisure. The admission fee also includes the rental of a audio guide which explains the scenes depicted in the tapestry in great detail. The best time to go to view the tapestry is as soon as the museum opens its doors in the morning, when the school groups are still assembling around town and the tourist scrum is at its least imposing. If you're fortunate, you may even get the Tapestry all to yourself.
Bayeux's main streets offer a multitude of food options, from French bistros and outdoor cafes with gastronomic delights gracing the menus to the more standard international fare, all happily catering to the tourist crowd. An cup of espresso coffee (or even a cheeky glass of wine!) is never far away as you stroll around the town centre.
The second irresistible draw for those visiting Bayeux is its suitability as a base for exploring the historic locations of another historical invasion, albeit one in recent, not ancient, history, not to mention one of liberation rather than conquest. Back in 1944 five beaches north and west of Bayeux, codenamed Gold, Juno, Sword, Omaha and Utah, were the disembarkment point of thousands upon thousands of Britsh, American and Commonwealth troops in the D-Day Landings, the military operation to liberate France and ultimately the rest of Western Europe from the grip of the Nazis. These days it's the tourists that disembark in their thousands, lured by the remnants of (and memorials to) the invasion that cost so many young lives.
At Arromanches, north of Bayeux, it's still possible at low tide to see the remains of some of the hulking structures that formed the famous Mulberry Harbour, the artificial dock which the Allies constructed and floated across the English Channel in order to unload heavy equipment onto the French beaches to support the invading troops. Even with the little museum and scattered monuments in the form of vehicles, bomb shells, artillery guns and bunkers, it's difficult to imagine this sleepy stretch of coastline being the site of so much carnage less than seventy years ago.
In addition to the Mulberry Harbour, there is also a 360-degree cinema at Arromanches which shows affecting war documentaries. In the surrounds of Bayeux there are numerous impeccably-tended war cemeteries, a visit to one of which is a sobering yet essential experience.
The main D-Day sights are easily accessible by car, being clearly signposted; alternatively, you may instead wish to partake in an organised bus tour, the majority of which run from Bayeux to the primary D-Day sites of interest on a daily basis. The Tourist Information Office will be able to provide you with details of the schedule and pricing.
As a day-trip destination, Bayeux is a rewarding experience on many levels, and has something to offer everyone, old and young.
Marc is an expatriate living in Normandy in northern France, and visits Bayeux regularly. He spends his time offering information to fellow expatriates worldwide on the issues surrounding expat travel insurance.
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